There are two types of pre-emergent products available in today's market place that the homeowner should know about. One type stops the germination of crabgrass and foxtail, as well as, other select annual weeds such as spurge. The second type stops the germination of broadleaf weeds such as dandelions. Both products put down a protective barrier to stop the germination of their target weeds. However, the difference is in the timing of these two different applications.
The first treatment that you are scheduled to receive in March contains a balanced fertilizer to help green up and maintain your lawn. However, also in the Spring (April), you will receive as part of your service the type of pre-emergent that stops grassy annual weeds such as crabgrass. It is important to have this protective barrier put down before the soil temperature reaches 55 degrees on a consistent basis. Crabgrass will not potentially germinate until the soil temperature reaches 55 degrees or higher on a consistent basis.
On the other hand, dandelions germinate in the Fall and flower (seed) in the Spring. As a part of the pre-emergent treatment, you will also receive an application of broadleaf weed killer that will eliminate any dandelions that germinated in your lawn last Fall. Air temperature, however, should be 60 degrees or higher to successfully kill most broadleaf weeds. So, you will be receiving your broadleaf weed control treatment this year (2nd...
If you've noticed a problem with Junebugs and other beetles in the early summer months, and patches of dead grass on your lawn by late summer, you probably have a grub issue. Grubs can be the larvae of many different species, including Japanese Beetles, Chafers, and the dreaded June Bug. These pesky beetles lay their eggs in your grass, and when they hatch they feed on your roots and grass, leaving dead and brown patches scattered across your yard.
Think you have a grub problem? 10-15 grubs per sq/ft is considered an infestation, and will cause issues down the road.
We are experts in getting rid of grubs, while still being conscientious of the environment. We follow the Intergrated Pest Management guidelines, which aims to suppress pest populations below the economic injury level.
If you have a grub problem, you may even be able to peel back patches of dead grass in your lawn. This is because the grubs feed on the roots of the grass, killing the blades and leaving them floating on your lawn, dying from lack of nutrients from the soil. Your yard may feel spongy, as if it were freshly laid sod.
You may also notice signs of other critters in your yard, like raccoons and birds digging up your lawn. They're looking for a feast of their own, the large and mature grubs growing in your lawn!
The key to managing your grub problem is to take care of it before they hatch and begin to cause ...
Proper watering techniques and practices, along with proper mowing, are critical to maintaining the health and appearance of your lawn. Improper watering practices promote a shallow root system and helps promote lawn disease outbreaks. The entire key to watering your turf properly is the regulation of the amount of water your turf receives. Measure the amount of water applied to your lawn from the irrigation source during a 20 to 30 minute time period. Use a collection device such as rain gauge or tuna can to collect water applied. Adjust the runtime to deliver the proper and required amount of water.
1) Water your lawn when it shows signs of dryness. Such signs are grass blades showing a faded color or turf does not bounce back when walked on, but instead lies flat. If a sharp object such as a screw driver has difficulty penetrating the soil, then it is time to water.
2) Deep water so that it reaches the root zone. Desired amount of water applied should be to about 1 inch below the root zone. This encourages deep root growth. Use a screw driver to poke the soil to make sure the water is being absorbed into the root zone. Water 20 to 30 minutes per station on rotors and 10 minutes for pop ups as a general guideline.
3) Avoid light ...
Proper mowing techniques and practices, along with proper watering, are critical to maintaining the health and appearance of your lawn. One common mistake of homeowners is mowing their type of turf species too short. Another common mistake is removing too much of the leaf blade at one time. You are really asking for trouble if you mow your lawn with a dull mower blade. All three poor mowing practices can spell disaster for the health and appearance of your lawn. Below are some guidelines to help you avoid these common mistakes.
Mowing height - Mow bluegrass at a height of 3 inches. Fescue turf should be mowed even higher with a height range of 3 1/2 to 4 inches. The lower range is fine in the early Spring or the late Fall, however, generally speaking the higher number is the preferred height. Within reason, you actually can't mow your turf too high except for personal preferrence for appearance or mechanical limitation. Not all residential mowers have height adjustments this high, so as a general rule mow at the highest setting or one notch below.
Mow frequently - Try not to remove more than the top 1/3 of the leaf blade per cutting.
Sharp blade only - A dull mower blade will severely damage your turf by tearing instead of making a clean cut on the leaf blade. You are at greatest risk for turf diseases if the grass blade is damaged or torn by a dull mower blade. This is particularly true in warm months of late...