If you've read our recent blog posts you may notice a recurring theme...timing is everything!
So what is a weed and feed exactly?
There are a variety of different lawn chemicals with the purpose of weed and feeding. It helps promote a healthy lawn by killing unwanted weeds, adds necessary growth nutrients, and improves your lawn's ability to absorb water! All these things come together to give you a nice, weed free yard. The chemicals we use focus on broad leaf weeds (you know - the pesky ones). Pulling these weeds can leave pits in your yard, weakening the roots of otherwise healthy grass, which is why chemicals are recommended instead. The blends of fertilizer used in a weed and feed vary by brand, but all of them are focused on providing nutrients, promoting growth, and leaving you with a healthy looking lawn.
Now that's a healthy looking lawn!
You may be thinking, will your healthy grass die along side the weeds being sprayed? Luckily, no! The granules are absorbed by the broad leaves of the weed, and your grass is safe. Liquids can also be used in place of granules, which are equally effective. Grass is hearty and tough, but if you apply too much of any chemical to it, it will burn and damage, so it's better to take a less is more approach when dealing with chemicals!
If you've noticed a problem with Junebugs and other beetles in the early summer months, and patches of dead grass on your lawn by late summer, you probably have a grub issue. Grubs can be the larvae of many different species, including Japanese Beetles, Chafers, and the dreaded June Bug. These pesky beetles lay their eggs in your grass, and when they hatch they feed on your roots and grass, leaving dead and brown patches scattered across your yard.
Think you have a grub problem? 10-15 grubs per sq/ft is considered an infestation, and will cause issues down the road.
We are experts in getting rid of grubs, while still being conscientious of the environment. We follow the Intergrated Pest Management guidelines, which aims to suppress pest populations below the economic injury level.
If you have a grub problem, you may even be able to peel back patches of dead grass in your lawn. This is because the grubs feed on the roots of the grass, killing the blades and leaving them floating on your lawn, dying from lack of nutrients from the soil. Your yard may feel spongy, as if it were freshly laid sod.
You may also notice signs of other critters in your yard, like raccoons and birds digging up your lawn. They're looking for a feast of their own, the large and mature grubs growing in your lawn!
The key to managing your grub problem is to take care of it before they hatch and begin to cause ...
Crabgrass can be tough to get rid of, but we're here to help. It pops up in chunks and the thick blades soon take over and give your yard a messy look.
One of the biggest weapons you have against crabgrass is timing. Applying pre-emergence herbicide in the spring before the crabgrass can sprout helps kill the emerging seed sprouts and keeps things manageable for the upcoming summer months. Our 6 and 7 step treatments plans attack crabgrass and other unwanted weeds at multiple intervals throughout the year, ensuring they don't stand a chance! Timing is everything, and if you don't get signed up with us early enough to get the pre-emergence down, don't fret! We can still help you maintain a consistent and healthy looking lawn by taking the proper steps.
Once the soil has warmed up and your yard begins teeming with life (wanted and unwanted), the time window for pre-emergence has passed. You may think pulling is effective, but think twice! If the seed head tines have spread out like a fork, you'll end up scattering fresh crabgrass seeds and may make the problem even worse! If the roots are embedded too deeply, you may also end up pulling up perfectly good grass chunks as well, leaving you with bare spots in your yard and convienient holes for the crabgrass seeds to fall in to.
As part of our 6 and 7 step treatment programs, we spray post-emergence herbicide directly on to the crabgrass after it...
Proper watering techniques and practices, along with proper mowing, are critical to maintaining the health and appearance of your lawn. Improper watering practices promote a shallow root system and helps promote lawn disease outbreaks. The entire key to watering your turf properly is the regulation of the amount of water your turf receives. Measure the amount of water applied to your lawn from the irrigation source during a 20 to 30 minute time period. Use a collection device such as rain gauge or tuna can to collect water applied. Adjust the runtime to deliver the proper and required amount of water.
1) Water your lawn when it shows signs of dryness. Such signs are grass blades showing a faded color or turf does not bounce back when walked on, but instead lies flat. If a sharp object such as a screw driver has difficulty penetrating the soil, then it is time to water.
2) Deep water so that it reaches the root zone. Desired amount of water applied should be to about 1 inch below the root zone. This encourages deep root growth. Use a screw driver to poke the soil to make sure the water is being absorbed into the root zone. Water 20 to 30 minutes per station on rotors and 10 minutes for pop ups as a general guideline.
3) Avoid light ...
Proper mowing techniques and practices, along with proper watering, are critical to maintaining the health and appearance of your lawn. One common mistake of homeowners is mowing their type of turf species too short. Another common mistake is removing too much of the leaf blade at one time. You are really asking for trouble if you mow your lawn with a dull mower blade. All three poor mowing practices can spell disaster for the health and appearance of your lawn. Below are some guidelines to help you avoid these common mistakes.
Mowing height - Mow bluegrass at a height of 3 inches. Fescue turf should be mowed even higher with a height range of 3 1/2 to 4 inches. The lower range is fine in the early Spring or the late Fall, however, generally speaking the higher number is the preferred height. Within reason, you actually can't mow your turf too high except for personal preferrence for appearance or mechanical limitation. Not all residential mowers have height adjustments this high, so as a general rule mow at the highest setting or one notch below.
Mow frequently - Try not to remove more than the top 1/3 of the leaf blade per cutting.
Sharp blade only - A dull mower blade will severely damage your turf by tearing instead of making a clean cut on the leaf blade. You are at greatest risk for turf diseases if the grass blade is damaged or torn by a dull mower blade. This is particularly true in warm months of late...
There are two types of pre-emergent products available in today's market place. One type stops the germination of crabgrass and foxtail, as well as, other select annual weeds such as spurge. The second type stops the germination of broadleaf weeds such as dandelions. Both products put down a protective barrier to stop the germination of their target weeds. The difference is in the timing of the applications.
With GO GREEN LAWNS LLC, of Louisville, Nebraska you will receive both types of pre-emergents. However, it is important to understand the timing of their application. The first application you will receive as part of your service is the type of pre-emergent that stops grassy annual weeds such as crabgrass. It is important to have this protective barrier down before soil temperature reaches 55 degrees. Crabgrass will not germinate until soil temperature reaches 55 degrees or higher on a consistent basis.. The first application you are scheduled to receive also contains a balanced fertilizer to help green and maintain your lawn. Our crabgrass preventer is applied in several treatments for maximum protection.
On the other hand, dandelions germinate in the Fall and flower (reproduce) in the Spring. The second scheduled application that you will receive this season will eliminate any dandelions that germinated in your lawn last Fall. Air temperature, however, should be 60...
Why apply a Winterizer treatment to your lawn ? Winterization of your turf is an important step in preparing your lawn to endure the cold Winter months. This treatment ensures the turf goes into Winter in peak condition. Also, provides for quick green up and thicker turf come Spring when compared to lawns that have been left untreated.
At GO GREEN LAWNS LLC of Louisville, Nebraska, our GOLD PACKAGE includes this final treatment. We combine the necessary nutrients for cold Winter months with a final weed control treatment. Thus your lawn is not only thicker and greener come Spring, but you will have fewer broadleaf weeds present in your lawn as well. Broadleaf weeds, such as dandelions, germinate in the Fall and reproduce starting in the Spring. So, naturally the fewer weeds you have going into Winter the fewer if any broadleaf weeds you will have come Spring. In addition to affecting color, nutients in Winterizer treatments encourage root development and provide better turf stress tolerance the following season. A Winterizer treatment is an economical way to start your lawn off right way the following year. We highly recommend our GOLD PACKAGE for the above mentioned reasons. Please contact us for package or a la carte pricing.